Home, again

One year ago today, I took this selfie:

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This is the story of how I got here.

We moved separately, kinda.

On Monday, July 14th of last year, the packers showed up at 209 West Drew back in Houston. Erin was super uncomfortable watching them paw through our things, though, and we still needed to get (a) a car being delivered to some friends and (b) our cats to North Carolina, so Erin and our best friend Eric left that morning on a two-day trek to Durham.

The packers arrived and did their thing, and were largely done by the end of the day.

Tuesday the 15th was empty; I ran errands. Wednesday, the actual packers came and loaded all our worldly goods into a giant truck — a process that still gives me the heebie jeebies, since (as with all cross country moves) our things would be on a truck with someone ELSE’s things, and there’d be stops between Houston and Durham. That night, I went down to Tiny Champion’s for my last Houston dinner, and the incomparable Justin V comped my meal as a goodbye gift.

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Thursday morning (the 16th), I loaded up my duffle, strapped it to the Triumph, and lit out for the colonies. (I was gonna say “territories,” but in fact I was moving FROM the territories TO the colonies, since North Carolina is one of the original 13.)

I meandered my way northeast from Houston, trekking through deeply sketchy parts of Louisiana before I hit the Natchez and, of course, the river:

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From there it was the Trace to Jackson and Mother, which put me at nearly 425 miles for the day. That’s not a long way, but it IS a long way on a classic-styled (ie non-touring) motorcycle.

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Friday the 17th took me further up the Trace, which was getting pretty boring to be honest. Sure, it’s picturesque, but it’s the same kind of picturesque the whole way. There’s no elevation on it at all, and its protected nature means there’s also no commerce. I actually found myself getting SLEEPY from the monotony, so I stopped for coffee:

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Lunch was a mighty burger at the Neon Pig in Tupelo, which was fine as those things go (and hat tip to Ride to Food for her generally excellent moto travelogues, and the Trace video in particular; the coffee stop was also on her guide):

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I finished the day with a fast burn up a 4-laner through Huntsville and thence to my berth for the night, Chattanooga, after almost exactly as many miles as Thursday.

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Saturday the 18th was the highlight of the trip, starting as it did at my favorite highfalootin’ brunch joint:

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The peak (pun intended) was riding the Cherohala Skyway from eastern Tennessee into western North Carolina. It’s breathtaking and amazing, and you should go there at your earliest opportunity (preferably on a motorcycle; see this great vid about the area from moto Youtuber Doodle).

Lots of folks would’ve insisted on a detour through the (in)famous Tail of the Dragon, which in truth isn’t far from there, but it also gets VERY crowded. Where sporty riders and drivers are, “crowded” means “dangerous,” and the earliest I could’ve gotten there was around noon. On a SATURDAY. I skipped it, and instead opted to visit my paternal aunt and uncle over in Murphy. This visit turned out to be well timed; my aunt’s health was failing, and she passed away just five months later.

I ended Saturday in Asheville, after 292 miles, at this very weird hotel:

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Then, on Sunday the 20th, I got home. Here’s the picture again, because I love it — this time, with the tag I added for Instagram:

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Leaving a place after 31 years is a heavy thing to do. We miss people keenly, and we miss things that Houston’s scale could give us that a dramatically smaller place like the Triangle just can’t touch (the Menil, Dacamera, the restaurant scene, flying without connections). But living here has been a breath of fresh air we can’t stop taking. it’s beautiful everywhere you look; even inside Raleigh, the drive to the grocery store is beautiful. A huge chunk of the appeal is kinda summed up in a bit of dialog with our new neighbors when they were unloading the truck. She said “you’re going to love the area, but sorry in advance about all the heat, humidity, and traffic.”

Reader, I laughed. And a year later, I can tell you that we have encountered none of those things in meaningful quantities.

We love you all. Come visit.

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Dept. of Records Redux: Pogačar Watch

Two years ago I wrote about Mark Cavendish beating Eddy Merckx’s stage win record at the TdF:

Until today, the record for Most Stage Wins in the Tour was held by cycling god Eddy Merckx, a Belgium rider who dominated the sport in the 60s and 70s. He won the Tour 5 times outright, and bagged the points prize 3 times and the mountains award twice, all on his way to winning a stunning 34 stages, a record he set 49 years ago. I could go on and on here, but suffice it to say that Merckx dominated cycling in a way that really exceeds the huge footprint Jordan left on basketball, or that Tiger had on golf. He won everything over and over, in a way that no one has been able to approach since, partly because cycling has become enormously specialized. Cavendish has the stage win title now, for example, but he’s a sprinter and has never been in contention for the overall Tour.

I went on to note that the stage win ranking list has been pretty stable, aside from Cav’s march towards the top. When I wrote that post, the next rider in the list with 21st century stage wins was Marcel Kittel, then in 13th place, who did his winning between 2013 and 2017.

Then I noted:

The only other currently active rider (aside from Cav) is wonderkind Tadej Pogačar, currently tied for 16th place with 12 wins (including Stage 4 of this year’s race).

Mr Pogačar has been busy in the last two years. Yesterday, he bagged stage win number 22, placing him in 5th place (tied with Andre Darrigade, who last won a stage in 1964). Tadej needs only 3 more to tie Andre Leducq for 4th place, and it’s early in the tour yet. After that, the mountain gets steep:

  1. Cavendish, 35 stage wins
  2. Merckx, 34
  3. Bernard Hinault, 28

But Tadej is still young (27), and is on a tear. He won 4 stages last year, and 6 the year before that. If he ends this year with 4 total, he’ll be tied for 4th. 4 more in 2027 would beat Hinault and put him in 3rd.